The Hecate Strait which lies between Haida Gwaii (formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands) and the BC mainland has a fearsome reputation. When a strong pressure system is around, the waves can become so high that the bottom of the sea is revealed. This would not be where you would want to be! A large portion, especially at the north west, is quite shallow which helps the wind driven waves to perk up a lot. Now, the big problems in the Hecate Strait are usually in the winter. But, this is a serious piece of water.
We waited with our two Canadian cruiser couples for two days listening to fragmentary weather reports that we could sometimes get on our VHF marine radio. Often, the radio would say things like:
The forecast for the Hecate Strait will be winds of !@#$%%^ coming from the )(*&&^^%%
or
The forecast for the **(*&(^Y(*& will be 20-25 kts from the )(*&^%*&(
We tried, by listening to multiple repeats of this garbled information, to fill in the blanks.
After two days, our Canadian friends decided to stay and wait for a ‘better forecast’ but we decided to poke our nose out there and see what what was going on.
We left at 6 am in heavy clouds and as soon as we left our anchorage at Spicer Island, we found the wind blowing 10-15 kts from the NW with a 1-2 meter swell also coming from the NW. Since our desired direction was a bit south of west, these were good sailing conditions. For about 6 hours we sailed along, slipping over some waves and banging over others. Then the wind dropped. So we turned the motor on. Less than two hours later, the wind picked up from the opposite direction (SE) and we turned the motor off again and sailed on the other tack until we came to Queen Charlotte City which is at the middle of Haida Gwaii. The total distance was 80 NM and it took us about 13 hours.
As we came into the little marina, beautiful wind-driven fog-clouds swirled and flowed to welcome us to the very special place which is sometimes called the Canadian Galapagos. In addition to special wildlife habitats, Haida Gwaii has an extensive and artistic native tradition.
Carol Kampert
22 Jul 2016Congratulations, Leslie and Val! So glad you made it safely and quickly to Haida Gwai. How long will you be there? I know you want to explore as much as possible. It looks like you had blue skies, with a beautiful low fog.
We had a great time at Laura’s concert at the Botanic Gardens. We’ll send pictures and a video soon.
xoxo Carol & DaveI
Susan and Don
22 Jul 2016You made it through with a downwind sailing day to boot. Yeah! Looks beautiful.
Eric Adelberger
22 Jul 2016Gutsy sailing Val and Leslie, the Veirs sail on where the locals fear to tread. Your blog is fantastic and gives a wonderful flavor of your adventure, it gives us a great impression of what you are doing and seeing. I did n’t quite realize quite how much an adventure you were going on until I saw your blog.
virginia garlitz
22 Jul 2016Dear Veirs, Glad you sre safely through and able to relax a little as the photo shows-some beautiful shots of water and cloud.
We are anxiously awaiting the arrival of David and his family Emma 5 and Eliot2. We were told tat the “terrible twos” don’t exist in France so we are sure that Eliot is a “trailblazer”.
Hope you come this way some day. It would be so wonderful to see you.
va
Audra B. Adelberger
22 Jul 2016I’m sorry, but that picture of Val totally nullifies the drama you describe. Or perhaps not, perhaps we’re seeing what consummate sailors you really are, no sweaty fear, no wringing hands, no deck-pacing. Delightful!
It’s a lot of fun sharing your adventures vicariously, thanks for all the photos and words.
Barbara
23 Jul 2016So glad to hear you made it across safely! Did you see the sea bottom? Were the waves huge? Enjoy the rest of your trip. Love, Barbara
Jane Smith
23 Jul 2016Beautiful pictures of the fog on your approach…..mystical and magical even….enjoy your visit to Haida Gwali.
J & D
Julia R
24 Jul 2016What a gorgeous sailing day. So glad you were able to make it to Haida Gwaii. It must be one of the most beautiful places on earth.
*******
beth carlson
25 Jul 2016So dramatic—the beauty of the Northwest! Our recent boating in Missouri was not quite the same—we were stripping clothes off–I see you adding them! We are so glad you made it to Haida Gwaii safely. Beth & Bob
Robin
6 Aug 2016So glad to finally catch up on your blog. What an adventure! Will Hope to catch up with you in person in Desolation. Need anything from home?